How to Wash a Fleece Hoodie So It Doesn't Pill

Green fleece zipper hoodie, showing the brushed pile surface that pilling damages

A fleece hoodie usually does not wear out. It goes bobbly, starts looking cheap, and gets quietly retired to the back of a shelf. That is pilling, and it is almost entirely caused by how the thing is washed.

The good news is that the fix costs nothing.

What pilling actually is

Fleece gets its warmth from a raised pile of loose fibre ends. Rub those ends against anything abrasive and they tangle with each other into small balls, which stay attached by a few stubborn fibres.

So pilling is not the fabric failing. It is friction. Everything below is about reducing friction.

The rules that matter

1. Turn it inside out

The single most effective thing you can do. The outer face is what you look at; turning it in means the inside rubs against the drum and against other clothes, not the surface you see.

2. Wash cold

Thirty degrees or lower, or just cold tap water. Heat softens polyester fibres slightly and makes them far more willing to tangle. Cold also stops any cotton-blend trim from shrinking.

3. Wash fleece with fleece

Denim is the enemy. Zips, buttons, rivets and dry towel loops are all abrasive, and a single pair of jeans will do more damage in one cycle than a month of wearing. Wash fleece with other soft synthetics, or on its own.

4. Skip the fabric softener

This is counter-intuitive. Softener works by coating fibres in a waxy film — on fleece that film mats the pile down, kills the loft that makes it warm, and traps odour. Use a small amount of ordinary detergent instead.

5. Do not put it in the dryer

A tumble dryer is a machine for creating friction and heat simultaneously. Fleece dries in a couple of hours on a line anyway, because polyester holds almost no water. Hang it in shade — direct sun fades dyes.

6. Gentle cycle, lower spin

High spin speeds press garments hard against the drum. If your machine lets you choose, 600–800 rpm is plenty for something that barely absorbs water.

Removing pills that already exist

A hoodie that has pilled is not finished. Lay it flat and run a fabric shaver over it in short strokes — they cost a few hundred rupees and work well. A disposable razor, held almost flat and pulled lightly in one direction, does the same job if you are careful.

Do not pull pills off by hand. That drags the attached fibres out of the weave and thins the fabric.

Storing it for summer

Wash it before it goes away, not after it comes back. Body oils left in fabric oxidise over months and set into marks that will not come out. Make sure it is bone dry, fold rather than hang — a hanger stretches shoulders over a long storage period — and keep it out of a sealed plastic bag so any residual moisture can escape.

Common questions

How often should I wash a fleece hoodie?

Less than you think. Fleece does not hold odour the way cotton does. Unless it is visibly dirty, every five or six wears is plenty, and every wash is an opportunity to pill.

Can I iron fleece?

No. Polyester melts at a low temperature and an iron will flatten the pile permanently, leaving a shiny patch that cannot be undone. Fleece does not crease anyway.

Does washing make a hoodie less warm?

Only if you have been using softener or heat. A correctly washed fleece keeps its loft, and therefore its warmth, for years.

Shop men's winter and women's winter.

Keep reading

More from the journal

Read all